Homespun Gown, c.1800
100% flax (linen)
Irma Bowen Textile Collection
UNH Museum

From Rags to Riches

This blue and white striped gown made of homespun flax (linen) is part of the UNH Museum’s Irma Bowen Textile Collection. It was a gift of the Coe Family of Durham and is attributed to Temperence Knight Pickering (1732-1823) whose husband owned and operated Knight’s Ferry which ran from Dover to Newington, NH.

“The gown was probably worn over a petticoat. Darned areas just below the high waistline suggest that the wearer pinned an apron over the gown. Multiple patches suggest this dress saw a lot of wear.” (Linda Welters, Newsletter, Costume Society of America, Region 1). Ironically, it is the common nature of this gown that makes it so rare. Everyday clothing such as this was often used, mended, and re-used beyond recognition. That this ordinary gown was somehow spared from the rag-bag makes it truly unique.

Professor Laurel Thatcher Ulrich '80G, from Harvard University used the gown to exemplify homespun textiles in a history class, and during a recent textile symposium at UNH, scholars were excited to see this rare example of everyday wear. A photo of the gown illustrates the section on homespun clothing in the new, three volume, Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion (Charles Scribner’s Sons, 2005).

The Museum’s Irma Bowen Textile Collection has many treasures, including other garments from Temperence Knight Pickering. In 2000 the museum featured an exhibition from the collection titled, Tailored to Teach: Highlights from the Irma Bowen Textile Collection. The costumes for this exhibition were beautifully displayed by textile consultant Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director of the University Art Gallery.

Scholars wishing for more information or to see the textile collection may contact either Dale Valena (603-862-1081) or Astrida Schaeffer (603-862-0310).

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